Incredible but true — this was our very first time in Croatia. I had been tempted by the destination for a while, yet I kept postponing it, not particularly thrilled by the hotel options. But when the opportunity arose to visit Dubrovnik — which was already high on my list — as part of a trip to Montenegro, we couldn’t pass it up.
So off we took our two kids for a few days during the autumn school holidays to discover Dubrovnik and its surroundings.
A stunning city you absolutely must see — even if the trip came with a few small disappointments.
Our travel goals
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Go somewhere not too far from France yet still feel a change of scenery
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Discover Dubrovnik off-season, away from crowds and mass tourism — hence the choice of late October
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Spend a few sunny days without the extreme heat of summer
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Enjoy quality time with our children (aged 4 and 18 months)
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Our itinerary
Jour 1 – Dubrovnik by sea
Since we arrived quite late the night before, we wanted the first day to be relaxed and pressure-free. Our plan: catch a ferry to the island of Lokrum (located just opposite Dubrovnik and very easy to reach, even with kids) and spend most of the day there. We’d heard wonderful things about Lokrum — the free-roaming peacocks, the stunning sea views, the old monastery, and its proximity to Dubrovnik.
Lokrum
We parked outside the Old Town and walked to the port. Once there — mission failed! We were told the sea was too rough to dock at Lokrum. So we had to move to plan B …
We hopped on a little boat tour around Dubrovnik and Lokrum (at least to get a closer look at the island). Nothing extraordinary, but for €15 per adult, it did the job. Honestly, it’s one of the very few affordable things in Dubrovnik (where a single scoop of ice cream costs €4!), but more on that later… You’ll find plenty of booths offering these short tours at the old port.
Back to the old port
After the boat ride, we headed back through Ploče Gate.
Ploce Gate
The weather being rather gloomy, we spent the afternoon relaxing at the hotel, thankfully equipped with an indoor pool.
In the evening, we booked dinner at Restaurant 360, Dubrovnik’s only Michelin-starred restaurant — one of our best decisions and one of the highlights of our entire stay. Exquisite and beautifully-presented dishes in a jaw-dropping setting: dining on top of the city walls, outdoors, with a 360° view of the port and the old town. Magical. The staff were also lovely — which is not the norm in Dubrovnik. Highly recommended.
A peaceful evening stroll through an almost deserted Old Town closed the day perfectly.
Day 2 – Dubrovnik
The next day the sun came back, finally! We woke up early (not too difficult when your kids wake up before dawn!) in order to be the first ones to walk on the city walls — and to catch that golden morning light.
At 8:15am, we reached Pile Gate and proceeded to start our tour of the city walls. We were almost alone. Pure bliss.
It is simply impossible to visit Dubrovnik without walking along its world-famous medieval walls — one of the best-preserved fortifications in Europe. Built between the 12th and 17th centuries, they protected the Republic of Ragusa from invasion. The walls run for nearly 2 km and fully encircle the Old Town.
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, they offer breathtaking views over Dubrovnik’s ochre rooftops, the Adriatic Sea, and the surrounding islands. The walk takes about 1h30 — plenty of time to admire the bastions, watchtowers, and gates while soaking up the spectacular scenery.
Entrance fee (can be booked online): €40 per adult (yes, you read that right). But truly, it’s a must-do.
Obviously no stroller — the walls are narrow and full of stairs. We managed with a baby carrier and by letting the kids walk. Being alone up there made everything easier. The children loved pretending the turrets were prison towers and spotting lizards — they had so much fun!
Treasure hunt and lizard spotting
Our tips:
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Go early. Seriously. When we were coming down, hordes of cruise passengers were flooding in. Panic-inducing.
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If you have a baby, bring water, snacks, and sunscreen — yes, even in autumn. I got sunburned that day!
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Start at Pile Gate — you’ll save the best views of the city for the end.
We then wandered through the Old Town, but only briefly — even in late October, even on a Sunday at 10:30am, it was packed. If you’ve been to Puglia, the historic center of Dubrovnik may remind you of Lecce.
For lunch, I had booked a table at Panorama Restaurant, at the top of Mt. Srđ, overlooking the town. You can get there by car or cable car — we chose the cable car for the kids’ wow factor.
Tickets are (illogically) sold near Buža Gate, not at the cable car station. Also, beware of unscrupulous taxi drivers who want to charge you 150 euros to reach the top.
Once up there — the terrace was stunning and the service surprisingly friendly. The food was bad. A scandal considering the prices. Here, you pay for the view. Nothing else.
Dubrovnik from the cable car
View from Restaurant Panorama
Day 3 – Cavtat
Cavtat was the very good surprise we didn’t expect. I had briefly looked into places to visit or see near Dubrovnik and Cavtat (just next to the airport) seemed worth a stop. And thank goodness we went!
A charming seafront promenade, old stone houses, flowers everywhere, and locals enjoying the last swim of the season.
Do not miss it.
Tips:
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Don’t stick to the promenade — wander through the side streets (they’re deserted and delightful).
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If you’re with kids, there’s a lovely playground worth a stop.
Final verdict
Should you visit Dubrovnik? Yes. The city is absolutely beautiful. We particularly loved:
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Our early-morning walk along the walls
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Our dinner at Restaurant 360
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Wandering through the old town at night, almost empty
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The charming stop in Cavtat
However… some serious downsides:
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We are respectful travelers who always try to engage with locals. It usually makes for great travel experience. But in Croatia, people were rather unfriendly, sometimes downright unpleasant, despite our best efforts to engage.
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Even in October, way too many tourists — likely a post-Game-of-Thrones effect or simply cruise ship overload. They really should introduce visitor limits.
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Poor value for money: expensive food, expensive hotels, expensive activities — and not always with the quality you’d expect.
Practical information
Getting there
Transavia flies direct from Paris Orly. Service at Dubrovnik airport was awful, and the lounge looks like it hasn’t been updated since the 1970s — cracked leather seats and stains included.
Nothing positive to say about Transavia this time around. But unfortunately, but they almost have a monopoly on some medium-haul routes so we didn’t have much choice.
Where to park to visit Dubrovnik ?
Parking near the Old Town has been forbidden for several years — and yes, they do fine you. We parked at Garage Ilijina Glavica — a 10-minute walk, expensive, but you don’t have much choice.
With a stroller: take the main road (left when exiting the parking) — no steps — until Ploče Gate. With a baby carrier: take the stepped walkway to Pile Gate (right on exit).
Car rental in Dubrovnik
We used Sixt at Dubrovnik airport — excellent service, new car, friendly staff.
Two important tips:
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If you plan to drive to Bosnia or Montenegro, you really have to tell them (ideally when you make the booking)! There’s a €9/day fee which is not excessive. But if you fail to mention it and have an accident, you will not insured.
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Same thing goes if you plan to take a ferry with the car.
Speaking about insurance… We usually don’t take full coverage. This time we did and in retrospect it was absolutely the right call. Driving in Croatia/Montenegro proved to be a very chaotic experience (people really do crazy things on the roads). Also, parking spaces are tiny and must roads are narrow. Accidents can happen and happen often. So, at least we had the peace of mind to know that if any scratch happened, we wouldn’t have to pay a dime.
Where to stay in Dubrovnik?
We chose Sun Gardens, a Leading Hotels of the World — about 20 minutes from Dubrovnik.
Overall, a bit disappointing — probably because we came off season. In summer, we might have liked it more.
Sun Gardens – Dubrovnik
Pros
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Huge seaside resort with lovely grounds
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Multiple pools overlooking the sea (kids’ areas included)
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For the most part, friendly staff
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Great for families — spacious apartments with multiple bedrooms
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Beautiful sea views from the balconies
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Room service and take-out options allowing you to have dinner in your room
What disappointed
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In October: the kids’ club is closed and several services are unavailable (beach bar, pools not heated, stores closed)
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Babysitting = €35/hour (whaaaat?)
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Baby cot was cheap and uncomfortable
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Breakfast buffet large but disappointing in quality
Your questions / Our answers
What’s the weather like in October?
Mixed. Day 1: rain, 10–15°C. Days 2 & 3: sun, 20–22°C. Coastal weather changes fast. Always have a rain plan.
If we had to do it again, we’d go in early October — still warmer, sunnier, and people still swim.
Is Dubrovnik a good destination with young children?
Honestly? Not the best. Sure, we made it work but it’s not ideal with babies/toddlers.
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Lots of stairs
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Not stroller-friendly
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Little culture of welcoming young children
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Baby food options very limited
Our kids still had fun, but it required logistical effort and creativity (yes, I pulled out another treasure hunt!). Great trip — but definitely not relaxing.
What else can you do around Dubrovnik?
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The Elaphiti Islands
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Korčula and its vineyards
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To the south, Konavle valley — gorgeous scenery and wine region too
October 2025
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